Frequently asked questions about ropes

Yes, it depends on how you cut the rope on the wall.
If the rope is clipped in a straight line between the belayer and the last attachment (which is optimal) and a fall occurs, the entire length of the rope will take the load.

If the rope is clipped to the wall like a slalom course, only the last part of the rope can take the load. Each turn creates friction and removes some of the rope's ability to stretch, dramatically increasing the load on the last point of attachment.

This can be avoided by using longer express loops. When ice climbing, for example, it is very important to minimise the load on the attachment points (ice screws). It can then be very practical to use fall arrestors. A fall arrestor is a sewn-together loop that starts to "rip at the seam" after the 250kg load. In this way, the fall arrestor slows down the load and allows the maximum load on the anchor to be 600 kg.

Once the ropes have become dirty, they should be washed.
You can put the rope in the washing machine at a maximum of 30 degrees.
There are detergents designed specifically for ropes that do not damage the fibres. The rope brush is also a very effective and simple tool.

These ropes, also called static (wrong because they have a certain amount of elongation) are made for rope work where you hang from the rope. In this type of work you want as little stretch as possible to avoid swinging. A semi-static rope stretches about 40% before breaking, a dynamic rope stretches about 70-80%. For a factor 2 fall with 80kg and a semi-static rope, the catch pressure is 1208 dan.

The same test with dynamic rope gives 735 dan (may vary between different models).

In other words, it is not ok to climb with semi-static ropes as the trapping pressure is too high. These types of ropes can instead be used as anchor loops.

The lifespan of a rope is highly dependent on its use and maintenance. Download the PDF to learn more.

Single rope

Sport climbing, top rope climbing
Trad climbing (where the route follows a straight line, otherwise use double ropes).

9.1-9.7 mm. light weight, flexible.
9.7-11 mm. High wear resistance

Double rope

Ice climbing, trad climbing
The advantage of double ropes is that each rope is cut separately at the securing points, thus avoiding rope pulls.
Double ropes are also used on long trails with long celebrations as the ropes are tied together and you get the whole rope length to celebrate on the descent.
When ice climbing, it is very good to use a double rope as the load on the ice screws in the event of a fall is lower than a single rope. In addition, you have double the safety if you chop or kick the rope with an ice axe or crampons.

Is it ok to cut both ropes in the same carbine?
If you are climbing on unsafe points (ice screws, wedges, etc.) it is wrong to connect the rope in the same carabiner as this increases the trapping pressure in a fall. The result is that the trapping pressure is significantly reduced at one point as opposed to two points. Splitting the connection reduces the drag and allows the entire length of the rope to absorb the catch pressure.

It is also recommended to cut only one rope in the first connection after the stand.

How are the ropes affected if both are cut into the same carabiner?
The trapping pressure increases by 20-25% at the point where both ropes are clipped.

Is it ok to cut both ropes in the same carbine if they are bombproof points, like fresh drill bolts?
Yes, it's ok.

Is it ok to use a double rope for top rope climbing?
Yes, but be sure to check that the securing brake fits the diameter of the rope.

Why are the double ropes tested with 55kg?
A double rope must withstand 5 falls with 55 kg, which in practice means that it can withstand 2 falls with 80 kg. Double ropes are not designed for repeated falls at the same point.

What is the catch pressure on one (not both) double ropes if it is drop tested with 80kg?
About 25% higher trapping pressure than if tested with 55kg (the test norm is 55kg)

Twin ropes

Longer trips when there is a need for long descents. These ropes are designed to allow both ropes to be cut in the same carabiner.
The advantage of twin ropes is that you can celebrate the entire length of the rope after the ends are tied together. They are of thin diameter and thus very light. Good only for special tours.

Can I cut only one twin rope in the carbine?
No, they are not designed for this. Both ropes must be connected at the same time.

The elongation of the rope is greatly affected by how the intermediate fuses are connected.

The most important property of a rope is how softly it breaks the load in a fall. This is called the impact force. It is not only the body that is exposed to the load during a fall, but also the belay points. In a fall, the load on the belay points is 1.6 times higher than on the climber.

This is because the clipping point has to take the load from both the climber and the belaying device, generating a so-called hoisting effect. The load on the belayer is lower than the load on the climber because of the friction between the climber and the belayer. When climbing with wedges or ice screws, it is very important that the load is as low as possible in case of a fall.

It is also important that the catch is still low after several repeated falls (Numer of UIAA falls).
Another important characteristic of the rope is, of course, durability.
Ropes that are impregnated are much more durable and stay drier.
Most ropes that are impregnated have this on the sheath only. But there are also manufacturers that impregnate both the sheath and the core, such as Beal.

When reading fact sheets on ropes, values are often given in kN.
In simple terms, 1 kN = 100 kg or 100 daN.

Some simple tricks to extend the life of the rope are to use rope bags.

The rope bag prevents dirt from entering the fibres, which also wears out the fuse brake.

Another advantage is that the famous 'rope salad' does not cause trouble.

This is the weight of a climber including equipment.

It is the load the body can withstand (the same load as when a parachute unfolds).

Tests show that the body can withstand about 12 kn before it starts to be damaged (in a fall).

The standard requires the ropes to slow down the fall to a maximum of 12 knots (the same force as a parachute deployment).

Ca 70-80%

For a factor 2 drop of 80kg, the rope will stretch about 35-43%.

Factor 0.5 415 dan
Factor 1.0 650 dan
Factor 2.0 735 dan

The ropes lose about 30% of their performance when wet...,
For example, it turns out that ropes that can withstand 5 pieces of factor 2 falls, break in only 2 falls if they are wet.

Performance is affected even if there is a short rain shower.
Trapping pressure also increases with 5-10% on a wet rope.
A new rope increases the weight by 40-45%, while a used one up to 60% when wet.

No. The rope returns to its original performance.

It loses some of its performance, but not as much as a wet rope.

Impregnated ropes have more advantages than just keeping the liquid out, they are much more durable and will last longer.

Yes, but only with a pen recommended by the manufacturer.
Tests show that a rope labelled with the "wrong" type of pen can lose up to 50% of performance.