Category: Sports

Harry Denanto has travelled all over the world and competed in outdoor climbing at the highest level. In 2005 he became New Zealand Speed Climbing Champion and in 2010 Swedish Speed Climbing Champion. Today he runs his own company Denanto Climbing where he is also the main instructor. We called up Harry to find out how we create the best conditions for taking the step to outdoor climbing, both physically, mentally and in terms of equipment.

Hi Harry, tell us a bit about you and your climbing activities.

- I work as a climbing instructor and am authorised by the Swedish Climbing Association. Since a few years back I run Denanto Climbing which delivers rock climbing courses. I have been climbing at professional level for 18 years and have climbed in almost every country in Asia, Europe and Australia.

What type of climbing would you recommend to start with if you want to get started with your outdoor climbing?

- First of all, you have to look at the experience you already have. Ask yourself what you already know and build on your existing cards and certificates. You have to know what you are doing. Then I would recommend taking one of the many courses available, regardless of previous indoor climbing experience.

How can I maximise the conditions? Both physically, mentally and in terms of equipment.

- Physically, outdoor climbing is rarely a problem if you can already do indoor climbing, it requires about the same physical effort. However, the mental challenge can be an obstacle. The big mental challenge is the varying and irregular holds and the distances between them, which can be a worrying aspect of the climb. However, you can learn to manage the mental strain by practising falling safely to build up your experience of falling in different situations - straight down, sideways, short or long fall, from slab or overhang climbing. A good exercise is to think, 'if I were to fall in the next moment, how long would the fall height be?' In this way, you increase your awareness and gain more control over your climbing.

- In terms of equipment, you can use pretty much the same equipment as indoor climbing, but it's important to take the weather conditions into account. It's also a good idea to get an extra-long rope because outdoor climbing puts more strain on the ropes, which means you'll have to cut some of the rope sooner or later. Depending on where you are climbing, you may also want to use a treated rope that is extra resistant to water and abrasion.

What are the main differences between indoor and outdoor climbing?

- I wouldn't say there are any huge differences between indoor and outdoor climbing. The most obvious difference is of course the weather outdoors and the fact that you are climbing in a more uncontrolled environment. However, I think the best conditions for climbing are a relatively warm day with a fairly strong wind. The wind cools your body nicely and also blows away dust and other things that can collect on the rocks.

Is there any specific product from La Sportiva that you would like to highlight?

- There are many products that I would like to highlight. I have been climbing for many years and a product that has been with me for a long time is the TestarossaThese shoes are amazing in their agility and have an incredible grip. They are perfect for outdoor climbing and if you are climbing routes with small holes and hard-to-reach holds. I can also recommend Theory, especially for those with slightly wider feet!

Harry's 5 tips for getting started in outdoor climbing

1. Look at your own circumstances. Based on your experience, start with the type of climbing you are already used to.
2. Increase your awareness. Learn to fall by increasing awareness in your climbing.
3. Keep an eye on the weather. Take into account weather conditions, do not climb in rain or other weather conditions that may pose a safety risk.
4. Find your shoes. Do not wear shoes that are too small or too big. It is very important that the shoes fit your feet.
5. Equipment. Get extra-long ropes to protect yourself from wear and tear and anything else that will require you to cut the rope in a few places. For wet weather conditions, a rope with a treated surface is recommended.

At La Sportiva's trail event in May, there was the opportunity to try out La Sportiva's trail running shoes Mutant, Akasha and Helios 2.0. The models are specially selected for the trails at EcoTrail Stockholm, which takes place on 15 June. Find out more about the race and register here.

The event also featured super cool ultra runner Ellen Westfelt, who has completed one of the world's toughest ultra races, the mythical La Diagonale des Fous. The Diagonal of Fools race, as the Swedish translation reads, consists of 165 kilometres of running, 9576 metres of altitude and a time limit of 66 hours on an island off Madagascar.

"Ultra running is like life - there are no limits to what is possible"

The quote comes from Ellen's lecture from the trail event. She talked about the art of mentally coping with long and short runs and what it means to be Sweden's runstreak queen. We took the opportunity to ask her some questions about inspiration and motivation.

Hi Ellen, what inspires you?
My runstreak! A runstreak means that you run at least 1 mile, that is 1.6 km every day. I have been running at least 20 minutes every day since 4 September 2013, which is over 2000 days in a row. I am also inspired by being able to do all the adventures that the world offers.

Have you ever felt like breaking the run streak?
Yes, I thought I would stop after 1000 days, but it just kept going.

You have two children, how have you managed the logistics during the years of the runstreak?
Sometimes I've had to run back and forth on the road outside the house, or on the driveway to get it together, but it's possible if you want to.

Do you have a favourite race you want to run?
I would love to travel back to the paradise Reunion Island off Madagascar to experience the race The diagonal of fools. A race report from the race can be found in our podcast episode #87.

How do you manage to run so far?
For me, it's about loving the adventure. I believe in being humble in the face of distance, running slowly, eating and drinking and taking care of your body. The mental part is thinking about what's over the next ridge and what the sunrise will look like. Knowing that I will make it, that's what drives me.

How do you manage it in practical terms? What do you need to take with you, where do you sleep and how do you look after your feet when the race lasts up to three days?
My tip is to lubricate your feet with Shea butter and to change your socks after 12 hours. You can also rinse your feet at some depots. Sometimes there are also Drop Bags where you can change your bag if you need different types of equipment along the course, such as new socks, more energy and a change of clothes.

There are also requirements from the race organiser on what you should always carry along the course, such as gauze, rain jacket, food, at least one litre of water, headlamp with an extra battery.

The own company Pace on Earth

Ellen runs the company Pace on Earth together with his partner Johnny Hällneby, also an ultra runner. Together, they inspire and coach runners to run further, more often and faster. They also organise running trips, run a podcast and give lectures on ultra-running at companies and events. Want even more inspiration? Check out Ellen's Instagram account @weselle!

Here are three tricks from Ellen to get a runstreak:

- A good headlamp.
- Don't be too demanding. Think about going out for a walk and run if you get the 'feeling', it always comes once you are out.
- Change well in advance. I change before doing some household chores, then the step to get out when they are done is much smaller.

In April 2019, La Sportiva's Testarossa and Python climbing shoes got a boost to the delight of all high-performance climbers! More comfort and more aggressiveness for a new generation of climbers! The new models have also been re-coloured to minimise the risk of the shoes rubbing off on your feet.

Read more about the updates and check out La Sportiva's own film clip below for more information on what the updates mean for all climbers out there!

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The cult shoe Testarossa is back with a new heel design!

The climbing shoe Formula 1 car Testarossa is still the shoe for high performance climbers and is perfectly suited for steep sport climbing and hard bouldering problems. The heel has been updated with a sticky and durable rubber that will help you with your heel hooks. In addition, the new heel construction gives you a more even and stable pressure on the heel.

The shoe is built on La Sportiva's P3 Permanent Power Platform, which allows the shoe to retain its curved shape over time. The sole is covered with Vibram rubber that provides incredible grip and has a shape that gives you very good feel and precision. The midsole is designed to put the foot and toes in a powerful position, extra useful when it's steep. The asymmetrical lacing makes the shoe incredibly adaptable to the user's foot.

And the new design is, if possible, even better looking? Listen to what La Sportiva's Pietro Dal Pra has to say about the update below:

Python - the all-time winning shoe gets more aggressive and more comfortable!

The perfect choice for indoor climbing and competition? The classic Python climbing slipper has been redesigned. In addition to a boost in design, some adjustments have been made that affect performance. The rubber on the upper has been redesigned and is a slightly thinner layer than the previous version and more flexible to the movements of the foot. The volume and fit have also changed and you get further into the shoe and get a shoe that is both more aggressive AND more comfortable to wear. Still just as awesome for toe hooks! But no one says it better than Pietro Dal Pra. Check out the clip here.